Friday, 18 February 2011

PURE!

Notes from PURE

PURE SPIRIT
Next Generation Catwalk -
  • Dresses: Peach Dress Black Lace, Cape Attached To Back, Chanel Style Quilted with a Contrasting Collar, Denim With Big Bow Detail, Belted Tulip Skirt, Sleeveless Jersey Maxi, Rucched Taffeta, One shoulder
  • Sleeves: Silky Floaty, Loose, Rolled Up
  • Fabrics: Lace, Fur, Leather, Jersey, Fleece, Taffeta, Feathers, Denim
  • Capes: Jacquard, Mac Style, and Mini 
  • Longer Lengths
  • Skirts: Smart, Leather, Floral
  • 40's
  • Jumpsuits: Purple Leopard Print, Belted Jumpsuits
  • Floral Skirts and Cardigans
  • Stripes
  • Detail’s: Elbow Patches, Cuffs and Collars, At the Back, V-Necks, Waisted, Pattern Along the Sides, Scoop Backs
  • Knitwear: Cable, Alpine, Hooded
  • Coats and Jackets: Puffa, Classic Mac's, Denim Crop, Fleece and Fur Mix
  • Trousers: Smart, Printed Harem
  • T-Shirts: Picture, Cowel Neck
  • Sheer Shirts with Detail on Shoulders
  • Printed Suits
  • Accessories: High Socks, Hat with feathers and flowers, Leggings
Trends - How To Beat The High Street Summer 2011-
  • Bold and Bright Colours
  • Block Colour (Jill Sander)  
  • Mix Block Colours (Gucci)
MFW gucci ss11 - pic3.jpg
  • Use as an accent
  • Denim -70'S, Wide Leg, Dungarees, Sleeveless Denim Jackets, Sun bleached, Famine and Softer (Celine, Stella McCartney) Super Clean Denim in dark Colours
  • Orange (Prada) -  All Shades use sparsely with Tangerine works for High Summer, Mix With Turquoise, Use In Accessories

  •  Neutrals - Grey, Camel (Celine) Mix together, Mix Textures, Looks Expensive and Classy, Sand, Can Balance the Brights, Nude Footwear

  • 20's Flapper Style Broadwalk Empire
  • White - Structured Cotton, Panels, Clean Looks, Sharp Shapes, Long Tunics, Sleeveless (Celine),Crisp White Shirt, Peasant dress. fluid, softer, crochet
  • 90's
  • Structured Synced In Waist
  • Halter Tops - With Chunky Jewellery Emphasis on the Neckline
  • Asymmetric Cuts
  • Nude Footwear
  • Showing Of Shoulders
  • Denim - Wide Leg, Dungarees, Sleeveless Denim Jackets, Sun bleached, Famine and Softer (Celine, Stella McCartney)
Collections Summer 11 RTW 06
  • Midcalf Skirts (Need to wear with heels)
  • Prints - Tropical, Tribal, Animal. Aztec for Seperates
  • Animal Prints - Leopard, 70's look, Small Pieces
  • Tribal - (Prada), worn with stripes, Clashing prints, Looks high end, Necklaces

  • Stacked Bangle
  • Rock Look - High Street, Religion, All Saints
  • Slightly More Sophisticated and Grown Up
  • Jersey Maxi
  • Leather Jackets - (Balmain), mix with anything
balmain spring11c 150x150 Balmain Spring/Summer 2011 Sneak Peek
  • Detailing On Jackets
  • Sports Luxe - (Alexander Wang), Sports Shapes in Luxurious Fabrics, Heeled Trainers
  • Textured Laddered Knit
She Catwalk-
    • Leather Pattern Dress
    • Fur - Scarf, Bright Coloured Fur Jackets
    • Leggings – Patterned, Sequin
    • Detailing :Zip Detailing at the bottom of the jeans or down the front of the dress, Detailed Lining on coats, Bows, Bubble Hem, Sequins, Egyptian Neck Detail
    • Tie-died jeans
    • 1 piece dresses and pantsuits that look like separates because they are so different
    • Dresses - Kimono Style, Leather, shear, Tiered, Textured, Leopard Print, Jersey dress with satin fringing, rushed with 1 sleeve and detail at the back, Maxi With details on shoulders, Mid Length
    • Camel Tailored shorts With loose shirts
    • Floral Dress: Ditsy, With Capes, Waisted but loose everywhere Else, Beading on 1 side, Racer Back
    • Frills: along necklines, Down the front, Chiffon
    • Sleeves-Loose, Puffed
    • Occasionwear Pink an orange
    • Rushed Spaghetti Straps, Diamante Straps
    • Mix of harmonious colours
    • Stripes
    • 2 lengthen short and long at the back.
    • Fringed Skirt
    • Contrasting Colours underneath
    • Encrusted top with loose skirt
    • Sweetheart neckline and a corset back
    • Crinkle pleating
    • Collared shirt with lace detail all over the back
PURE
Womenswear Caltwalk -

  • Taffeta
  • Dresses - Prom Style, Full Length 1 strap on and the other off the shoulder
  • Off  The Shoulder,Chiffon Asymmetric Dress Beaded Band and bow on the shoulder, Blue Pinafore
  • Detail On 1 Side
  • Scoop Back
  • Belted Coat- Khaki with Tan Belt -Fitted Safari Look
  • Silk Shirts -Big Puffy Sleeve, Cowl Neck Shirt
  • Pinstripe Skirt Suit
  • Jacket short Sleeved
  • Stripes – Jumpers, along the waist
  • Printed Jumper Black and Cream
  • White Knitwear
Buying and Range Planning
  • Have to get the balance right and no under buy
  • Colour will come through in the summer and can be used for accessories
  • Delivery Important
  • Need to buy the right Trends
  • Need to work with the brands to make it easier to manage and sell
  • How to Measure Success - Customer Satisfaction, 85% sell through less than 50% not good
  • Don't buy for sale
  • Advice - Be Positive, Be Direction, Take a Chance
  • Right Application at the Right Store and the Right Time
WGSN Vision Catwalk
  • 3 Looks for A/W 11/12 - Triamph of Beauty - End and New Beggining
    • Faux Real - Tailoring, luxury, evening wear, digital, layering of 2D and 3D
    • 360 - Exploring Perspective and Movement, layers soft tailoring, eveningwear, drapping
    • Your space - Clean, Organised, Focused, Simplistic, Controlled, Tailoring, Workwear, Investment pieces, Nostalgic, 20's and 30's, Outfits saved for Best, Homemade Elegance
  • Future Aviators- Leather, Armour and chin mail, Luxury, Leggings, Chunky Necklace, Fringed Leather, Details on the sides arms knees and shoulders, Scales, gold, biker, ladder stitched jumper with metallic lining, textured chunky stitches, sequins, Sheer, slit at the back
  • Luxury - Rounded shoes, Chanel look Jacket, messy fur, mix of fabrics, detailing along the bust and on 1 side, shoulder tucked in, zips used as details, stripes, tweed, rose detail along the neckline, beaded collar, Cowel Neck, Beading leading to chiffon and tassels.
  • Vintage Best - Fur Collar and Scarfs, Flapper Edge Bottom of the dress, High collar, Floaty Look, Tapestry Coat, Crochet Tops and Dresses, Boat Necks, Crinkle Chiffon, Knee Legnth Dress, Bow Detail, Detail Accross the Shoulders.
    • Bowler Hat
    • Camel Coat
    • Printed Dress
    • Asymmetric Cardigans
    • Detailing on the edge of Trousers
    • Structured Jackets
    • Bow Tie Fronts
    • Large Shirts
    • Maxi Length
    • Camel mixed with Fur Polo Neck
    • Asymmetric Jumper mixed with Bright Accessories
    • Longer Length Leather Jacket
    • Full Length Fine Lace Gown
    • Wrap Dress with Epaulettes
    • Empire Line Shape
    • Asymmetric Ruffles
    • Low Back
    • Long Cowel Neck with Fabric underneath
    • Palazzo Pants
    • Oriental Look
    • Highly Detailed
    • Poncho
    • Layering with Leather and maxi dress
    • Baggy Tweed Coat
    • Asymmetric Floral Dress under a Ladder Knit Jumper
    • Sheepskin only used for the edging
    • Cape Shapes with a hood

Encrusted clusters

Vintage brooch style / Semi-precious placement

Scavenged junk

Salvaged hardware / Linear placement

Multifaceted paillettes

Giant sequinned surfaces / Considered repetitive linear placement

Carved contours

Laser-cut / Illusion of perpetual motion 

Dressmaker stitches

Sampler cross-stitch / Domestic machine work / Hand-finishing

Tangled braid

Thickened and trailing, collecting debris / Matted and woolly

Ribbon pleating

Flattened pleated ribbons / Controlled and undulating

Wild trimmings

Hair and feather-like fringes / Sectional placement 

Hi-tech / Low-tech function

Reproportioned plastic hardware / Strengthened woven straps and cables / Weathered leather

Pocket purse

Integral compartmental storage / 3D zip-off
Armour-esque
Inserted plates / Multifaceted panels / Rivet reinforcement 
Controlled gathersDrawstring/smocking/elastic used as structural elements
Jigsaw panels
Single component splicing / Quiet asymmetry

Tilt and shift

Pulled back / Thrown forward / Tucked and twisted

Distorted folds

Pleat manipulation / Splayed out / Cinched in / Stitched down

Origami

3D protrusions / Large-scale feature folds

Geo panel

Square and angled / Double-breasted bib

Tugged

Pulled round / Asymmetric slashed

Stand up and sit away

Spacious neck area / Grown-on picture collar 

Snood

Giant collapsed cowl neck / Optional add-on

Repetitive overlay

Multiple collar, lapel and hoods / Duplicated layers

Contrast raglan

Saddle cut / Opposing fabrications

Folded envelope

Folded diamond cut / Extended grown-on neckline

Insert

Shoulder cap / Dropped / Protruding / Contrasting

Cape sleeve

Slashed, sliced, split to expose arm

Dropped

Suspended volume from lowered shoulder-line

Extended

Coat-hanger shoulder-line











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